By Giorgio Carpaneto
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Additional resources for I palazzi di Roma
For tickets, go to the principal office of RENFE, Alcalá 44 (& 91-506-63-29; Metro: Banco de España).
Also try a few dozen half-inch baby eels. They rely heavily on olive oil and garlic for their flavor, but they taste great. Squid cooked in its own ink is suggested only to those who want to go native. Charcoal-broiled sardines, however, are a culinary delight—a particular treat in the Basque provinces. Trout Navarre is one of 26 2 MADRID IN DEPTH Eating & Drinking in Madrid the most popular fish dishes, usually stuffed with bacon or ham. Among the superb shellfish brought in daily from Spain’s Atlantic coasts, gambas (prawns) and mejillones (mussels) are widely available.
Other places may also add an unwelcome amount of cheap coñac or anis to the drink. Adventurous imbibers can try orujo, a fiery liquor or aguardiente (made from the stalks and skins of grapes) that tastes like a rough grappa and is sometimes offered free after a meal. Pacharán is a rose-purple anise-flavored sloe gin spirit from Navarra, a conventional after-dinner drink. WHISKEY & BRANDY The Spanish reign supreme with brandies and cognacs (though Spanish coñacs tend to be sweeter and darker than their French counterparts).